The Big Return of Kypseli in Athens

Kypseli means “Beehive” in Greek and that’s a great metaphor for this area that always throngs with activity. It’s one of the most densely populated urban areas in Europe – and you can feel it.

The old apartment blocks stand close together and certain streets can provoke a sense of claustrophobia that sometimes detracts from the spectacular, historic architecture that abounds. The upside is that, while they might be a little cramped for space, the worker bees of Kypseli are constantly working hard on creative projects, chic eateries and cool galleries, which all come together to form a vibrant honeycomb of cultural life.

Despite being one of Athens’ oldest neighborhoods, Kypseli didn’t take on its present appearance until 1937, when architect Vasilios Tsagris started transforming a stream called Levidi into a lengthy stretch of gardens with trees, water fountains, play areas, and statues, including a much-loved dog statue that first appeared in 1940. As a middle-class to upper-middle-class neighborhood developed around the now-pedestrianized Fokionos Negri Street between the 1930s and the 1970s, it left a treasure trove of architectural gems, from art décor to Bauhaus and mid-century modernist, making it Kypseli’s main artery.

Kypseli gives the opportunity to relive its glorious days of their golden era. This was a time when foreign superstars like Frank Sinatra would visit Fokionos Negri whenever they traveled to Athens.